I stumbled across the deck feeling my way over to the wooden railing. As my eyes started to adjust to the darkness, I could just barely see the river gently flowing passed. I relished the absolute silence of the predawn. None of my fellow travellers were awake and yet I wasn’t truly alone. In the distance I could make out the shapes of fishermen on the water. The stars may still have been shining above me, but below me men were already busy subsistence fishing on the Mekong River.
I had arrived not a minute too soon. The sun started its slow ascent over the horizon and I was rendered breathless as the sky and the river below slowly came to life. My body’s protests about the unseasonable hour and lack of coffee faded as I marveled at the dozens of wooden boats that skirted across the water. How could I complain about the early hour when these local men rose everyday before dawn to check their nets in the hopes of providing food for their family.
I sat enjoying the sunrise from the island of Don Khong in an area of southern Laos known as Si Phan Don, the 4000 Islands. Life in the 4000 Islands is inextricably linked to the Mekong River as it has been for hundreds of years.While today motor boats run between the mainland and the islands carrying food and supplies, many residents still rely on the river for their livelihood and diet. Subsistence fishing on the Mekong River is mostly carried out using traditional techniques, limited technology and feeds the local village. Subsistence fishing plays a large role in the region’s food security as fish is the main source of protein for the people living along the Mekong.
It wasn’t until later once the sun, and my friends, had risen that I learned what the fishermen were actually catching. My lovely guesthouse host, Mr. Pon, had suggested I visit the morning market. It was here that I met the wives of the fishermen selling their daily catch. By the time we arrived at just after 6am many of the items had been sold but I was still able to see several types of fish and various kinds of amphibians.
I am often confronted by complex emotions when visiting local food markets. I am drawn to these community gatherings as I’m intrigued by the notion that what people eat is unique to each culture and landscape. However, in many traditional markets, the reality of where our food comes from is visibly on display. At this market in Laos, no apologies were made for eating local animals. While I didn’t capture it on film, I witnessed plastic bags stuffed full of living frogs slowly suffocating. My friend felt great anguish on behalf of the frogs and wondered aloud what kind of person could feel no empathy for another living creature. She was referring of course to both the fishermen and the sellers who displayed no qualms about the state of their wares. While I agreed with her to some extent, I also privately wondered what kind of person could feel no compassion for the level of poverty and hunger that we had witnessed in these rural communities.
These frogs, and fish, would go towards filling the bellies of local children, of hardworking parents, of the fisherman who caught them. The frogs had lived in their natural habitat and, in the course of one day, would be caught, killed and eaten. Compared to the way animals are treated in the confined animal feeding operations popular in most developed countries, it seemed like an ideal life for a frog. I also reasoned that the fishermen kept the animals alive until they are cooked to reduce the chance of decay and bacterial contamination as this market existed without refrigeration or even ice.
It is easy as an outsider to pass judgement on a way of life we do not understand but these fisheries are a lifeline for the villagers who live on the small islands of Si Phan Don. Without using the natural resources at their disposal, they would not survive. I did not have the opportunity to learn about the environmental repercussions of these fishing communities while on Don Khong. Since returning home, I have read that some specialists warn that an increasing population and the intensification of fishing is leading to a depletion of the natural fish stocks. This is certainly an important issue that warrants deeper understanding and I’m glad that both charities and government organizations have it on their agendas.
A few days later, as I walked along a back road, I peered into one backyard and saw a woman cooking dinner for her family. It consisted of a big bowl of sticky rice and three frogs skewered whole and roasted over an open fire. There was no waste, no plastic packaging,no chemical inputs, no long distance transportation. Simply a woman cooking what had been caught by a local fisherman that morning directly from the river that runs by their home. I simply cannot image a more fitting description of the social and environmental value of local food.
Have you ever been confronted with mixed emotions at the sight of animals at a market?
Simmons on Style says
I looks absolutely beautiful there!!
globallocavore says
Yes, it is a very beautiful part of the country and the sunrises are famous for their colours. Thanks for stopping by!
A. Durkin says
The scenery is really beautiful. You are so right, we have no room to criticize since we treat our pigs, cows and poultry really cruelly. Mass production of food, all for profit, without compassion. Thank you for sharing.
Lesley Beamish says
Enjoyed reading this, It does make you think about thing a little differently and rightly so. A beautiful place and I loved the photographs.
globallocavore says
Thank you so much Lesley! I really appreciate that you read and enjoyed the post!
Van @ Snow in Tromso says
This sunset was definitely worth getting up early for! And thanks for sharing this inspiring story with us! I can definitely relate to this as I’ve just submitted my MA thesis in Indigenous Studies about Greenland where people still hunt whales and polar bears. I constantly hear people saying that they shouldn’t do it and that it’s cruel but Greenlanders use every part of the animals they hunt and they share the food with all their neighbours and family. This is so different to us in the “Western” world and there’s just such a double standard around the issue as most of the people commenting in this way, aren’t vegan or vegetarian and don’t have a problem eating chicken who’re being kept in captivity their whole life whereas whales and polar bears roam free…. such a complex topic anyway!
Van @ Snow in Tromso recently posted…Impressions of a Cabin in the Swedish Wilderness
globallocavore says
A complex topic indeed. And as with many food-related topics, one fraught with deeply-rooted, polarised opinions. I find it so interesting how intensely people hold their convictions around food: pro-vegan, anti-gluten, adamantly paleo, uncompromisingly raw-food. I actually think that is what makes food such a power vessel for change, people are profoundly committed to their food culture and willing to speak out on behalf of those convictions.
I’m ridiculously impressed that your MA thesis is in the field of Indigenous studies. As a Canadian, I know the importance of Indigenous Knowledge and (at least here in Canada) the lack of appreciation and respect it is afforded. Is that something you ever blog about? I’d certainly be interested to know more. As you say, the traditional methods used in hunting by indigenous people from around the world are worthy of attention due to their use of the whole creature and underlying respect for the ecosystem.
Thank you for sharing such a wonderful, insightful comment. Looking forward to reading more of your blog posts soon.
Lauren Bonheim says
In the US especially we are so so sheltered as to where our food comes from! We buy everything neatly cut and prepared in perfect little plastic packaging never knowing where it comes from or what happened to get it packaged to perfectly. My first time in Spain I have to admit I was extremely shocked walking through a local market, but I quickly learned to appreciate it. It’s never easy to see something like frogs suffocating in a bag or animals stuffed into little cages, but at least you know what’s happening and where your food is coming from! Thanks for sharing and touching on a complicated subject 😀
globallocavore says
Hi Lauren, thanks so much for the well phrased comment. I agree with everything you said! I was also very shocked when I walked through my first Thai market, but as you say, you come to appreciate it. I think it is more frightening that we know so little about how our food is produced and how the animals are treated.
Adrienne Lee says
Such beautiful sunsets!
globallocavore says
Thanks Adrienne!
Stephanie says
I had red lion fish tonight. A fish that is destroying the caribbean coral reefs, and thus being hunted and served. One could argue it’s wrong to eat living things, and I understand their opinion, but if it’s as destructive as the red lion fish I don’t feel so bad eating it.
globallocavore says
No way! It is very interest that you are eating Lionfish! I spent sometime in the Bahamas spearfishing Lionfish when they were first introduced as an invasive species and I didn’t feel (that) bad, but knowing that they are actually being used as a resource to be eaten, is very very cool. Thanks so much for sharing that anecdote, Stephanie. 🙂
Ahila says
While travelling in Hanoi, I once came across a man taking a cage full of live puppies, to the local market, to be sold as food. That was the most disturbing experience I had in terms of animals at markets. Thanks for this post on food choices and subsistence fishing on the Mekong river.
Ahila recently posted…Special Six: London Theatres
globallocavore says
Oh wow, Ahila, that’s a hard one. I have yet to see any cuddly mammals on their way to be consumed. That would be incredibly upsetting. In that case it does not sound like it was a local person using traditional techniques to live off the land so my understanding and compassion of the practice would be lessened. Experiencing the world, and all it’s flaws, with an open heart is the best I can hope for in these situations.
Isabel says
I love this post, and I agree with you completely. This quote was so on point: “I also privately wondered what kind of person could feel no compassion for the level of poverty and hunger that we had witnessed in these rural communities.” One can’t really judge on the way they treat their animals, they are its resources and there is knowledge and heritage on what they are doing. I mean, in the end, they are no better than the those of us who live in a buy-dispose-corportate rule world. Right?
Isabel recently posted…“Wait, are you Mexican?”: FAQ about my Life in Slovenia
globallocavore says
Absolutely! I think that many of the practices we have in the “developed” world are barbaric and need serious reexamining – like making everything out of plastic and designed for one time use. Ugh! I think it can be hard to see animals suffer (as it should be) but in the west we simply hide the act behind closed doors. Thanks so much for your wonderful comment.
Stella the Travelerette says
I had never much about Laos before travel blogging. But every post I’ve seen about Laos has such beautiful photos. I love your sunset pictures! I think that animal cruelty is a serious issue, but as you say so is poverty. I’m really not comfortable going to someone else’s community and judging them. I always assume that as an outsider there will be many things I don’t understand.
Stella the Travelerette recently posted…How to Have a Perfect Day in Borghese Park in Rome
Danielle Hayes says
I loved this post. I’ve never really been anywhere with such markets, but I understand the dilema. It can be hard knowing where to feel offended and where to show understanding of others lives.
globallocavore says
Hey Danielle. Yah, it is definitely a tough one to handle. I think having an open heart and trying to learn the reasons behind cultural practices can go a long way.
Patricia says
Fascinating post! First, I loved your description of waking to see the fishermen already at work. Second, it does pose a question that I haven’t really had to confront. I don’t condemn them for it as it is their way of sustaining life, although if it had been a bag of puppies sold as food my conditioning would have made that much more difficult to see than the frogs.
globallocavore says
Eek! Yes, you make a valid point about our conditioning. Who is to say that it is better/worst to eat a chicken or a frog or a puppy – and yet the thought of a bag of puppies is really gut wrenching. I think that so much of how we feel and what we believe is based on what we are used to, which means that travel can cause us to confront some difficult issues. Travelling can be challenging, but it is also very rewarding.
Katie @ The Budget Backpack says
I really like the thoughtfulness of this article. I’ve recently been on the fence about slowly cutting out animal products from my diet, but I struggle with knowing (1) that I love to travel and will not always be able to eat in a healthy manner on the road if I’m strict in my avoidance of animal products… and (2) other countries and cultures just aren’t as cruel to their food as we are. They use it as a necessary part of their life and survival and seem to have a greater respect of where their sustenance is coming from; versus many western countries who use animals/animal products to make $$. I’m still kinda figuring out how to balance my plate at home so I don’t wind up getting super sick if I go back to meat-loving Korea where food is so deeply entrenched in their culture, or to a rural village (basically anywhere) that may use local cheese to top a dish or lard in their rice and beans. It’s good to know that I’m not alone in this mental push-and-pull!
globallocavore says
Hi Katie. I have a lot of compassion for what you are going through. I was a vegetarian for a long time (about 13 years) and was deeply committed to the idea of animal rights. It was actually my decision to move to Europe that led me to reconsider my eating style. I examined my reasons for avoiding meat and realized they didn’t resonate with me any more. During my time working on a sustainable farm in France I saw firsthand what good food production can mean for both the animal and the health of the product that we eat. I realized that for me choosing to eat animals that are grown in humane conditions using organic practices actually aligns better with my (environmental, health and animal rights) beliefs than being a vegetarian. Now all that is based on my own personal journey and I believe food choices are incredibly personal, but I do think if you are planning to travel extensively, being open to trying some locally sources & traditionally made dishes can be valuable part of the experience. However, lots of travellers are vegetarian so it is definitely possible! I’d love to see what you decide, so I’ll pop over to your blog and follow along. Thanks so much for the really personal and interesting comment.
Tamar says
First I have to say those pics are stunning! I absolutely love sunrise even though I don’t get to enjoy too many of them. Second, I think fishing and hunting for subsistence, where nothing is wasted, is the way it was meant to be. Much less waste!
globallocavore says
Thank you for the compliment, Tamar. I am definitely not a morning person so I rarely see a sunrise, but wow, this one was worth it! I couldn’t agree more with your comment about subsistence fishermen/hunters being less wasteful. When you know the work that goes into getting meat on to your plate, you value every single bite. I wish countries with more developed agriculture could do likewise.
Marcella ~ WhatAWonderfulWorld says
Those sunsets shots, wow! You captured it so well 🙂
Beautifully written post, you made some points that I have often thought about when travelling in more developing countries too. I agree with you, the poverty is enough to understand the way the food is brought to the table. Thanks so much for linking up with us again, I am loving getting to know your great blog!
Marcella ~ WhatAWonderfulWorld recently posted…Street Art of The World
globallocavore says
Thanks Marcella for those lovely words. I’m very glad to hear that other travellers are pondering some of these same issues. Travelling in foreign place isn’t always easy, but it is rewarding!
Sally says
A very interesting read about sustainability, thank you for sharing your thoughts.
globallocavore says
Thanks Sally. I’m so glad you visited.
Nicole Louise says
This was really interesting to read… and such a dilema, isn’t it? It’s a bit of a culture shock to see people eating things that you would deem cruel- I often see people skinning eels alive at the fish markets in South Korea, and while I think that it’s cruel, I appreciate that it’s part of their culture… Plus, in our own countries we never know quite how much suffering an animal has gone through before it is on our plates. Like you say though, in less developed countries with such high levels of poverty, how can you condemn them? Definitely something to think about! Thanks for sharing 🙂
Nicole Louise recently posted…Exploring Korea by Bike: Yeongsangang and Seomjingang
globallocavore says
It is very challenging to watch something suffering. Seeing those eels skinned alive does not sound pleasant, but as you aptly remarked, we treat animals abysmally in the west, we just do it behind closed doors. I think overall, I’d rather be part of a community that is up front about the fact that the meat we eat does come from a living being, even though it can be hard to watch the process. I agree, it’s not an easy concept to come to terms with. Thank you so much for your insight. 🙂
Tracy Chong says
“It is easy as an outsider to pass judgement on a way of life we do not understand…..” I totally agree with this. Especially when we visit places that are totally different from where we live.
globallocavore says
Hi Tracy. Absolutely. We all make snap judgments but there is so much value in taking the time to understand the reasons behind traditions or cultural practices. It’s not easy, but it does help open our hearts and minds. Thanks so much for reading.
Kerri says
This looks like a beautiful location and your article is very though provoking. I will honestly admit to feeling repulsed at certain foods that are eaten – like dog, horse etc because I view them as domestic type of animals, and revolted by things like frogs and toads in Asia because they are just yucky. But then I do understand that this is not my way, not my culture and that this is how others are brought up and who am I to judge. It’s a tricky one.
globallocavore says
Thanks for sharing your thoughts Kerri. Yes, it is such a tough issue. I can’t say I’d have an easy decision if I was offered horse or dog to eat, but I try to be fully open to the culture and history of a place I’m visiting. This often includes experiencing situations that are very unlike those we find at home. For me, part of the appeal of travel is the unexpected, the unknown, the challenging, but those parts of travel are certainly not easy. Best of luck on your travels. 🙂
carla says
Waking up super early for a beautiful sunrise is absolutely worth it! When I was in Cebu Philippines I had a chance to watch some locals doing spear fishing which was a traditional way of fishing. I watched them come ashore with their catch hanging on a straw over their shoulder. You were right about the mixed feelings because thats how I felt for those fishes with a hole on their flat body and later on they would be served as lunch. Thank you for this article.
globallocavore says
Hi Carla. Thanks so much for sharing that cool experience. How did you like Cebu? I was there recently, and while I spent most of my time on nearby Bohol, I completely fell in love with the Philippines. The local people are so wonderful! I have story to share (eventually!) about cooking fish on a fire on the beach. I’m going to take a look at your blog to see if we were in any of the same places. 🙂
Jessi (Two Feet, One World) says
Fascinating post and beautiful photographs! #WanderfulWednesday
globallocavore says
Thanks for visiting Jessi. 🙂
Mary-the boondocks blog says
I have actually stopped eating rabbits for this very reason. Great photography.
Mary-the boondocks blog recently posted…The Versatile Hanging Saucer – Ένας Ευέλικτος Κρεμαστός Δίσκος
bettyl - NZ says
What fabulous photos of the sunrise and the people. How fabulous to live without plastic and packaging.
bettyl – NZ recently posted…New Zealand shoreline
James Williams says
Such some awesome photographs. I really loved them. I am making a plan to go there.